In June, LA-based designer Sami Miro was tapped by online boutique FWRD to design a couture gown from deadstock leather for Australian model Duckie Thot to wear to the star-studded amfAR gala in Cannes. For instance, she picked up a collection of 40 one-of-a-kind dresses by American womenswear designer and 2021 LVMH Prize finalist Conner Ives while he was still a second-year student at Central Saint Martins.įinding a wholesale partner that values the exclusivity of small-batch production can be powerful. Ida Petersson, buying director at Farfetch-owned luxury retailer Browns, seeks out emerging designers making unique pieces from upcycled items or deadstock fabric as a way to meet consumer appetite for ethically produced garments that are also exclusive and personalised. Buyers “kind of need us to always have bigger collections, more different colourways and just so many more options available for them.”īut as sustainability creeps up the agenda for retailers too, there are more opportunities to find alignment in ways of working. 80 percent of the time, it’s more of a tick-box exercise as opposed to a genuine desire for change,” said Ioanna Topouzoglou, founder and creative director of vegan handbag brand Mashu. “We are seeing more and more retailers wanting to stock sustainable brands. Retailers’ demands for newness, be it through hyped-up drops, seasonal collections, or working up exclusive capsules, can be a test for designers pursuing a low-waste, slow fashion approach to their business. The tension can put brands with sustainable and ethical positioning in a difficult situation: bagging a big stockist is a major coup, but fail to establish how this new business partnership meshes with your brand’s core values and you run the risk of both selling out and souring important relationships. “When you’re on this crazy hamster wheel of the global wholesale fashion calendar, it doesn’t leave time and space to really dive into your supply chain, and to better your supply chain,” said Maggie Hewitt, who took her slow-fashion label Maggie Marilyn direct-to-consumer in 2019 in a bid to grow her collection of responsibly sourced basics and engage with customers on her own terms. It’s a challenge facing a growing number of emerging designers who are looking to build ethical and environmentally responsible businesses wholesale partnerships can provide an unparalleled opportunity to drive exposure and revenue, but the trade-off is that brands often have to give up control over pricing and manage demands for constant newness, rapid production and inflated collection sizes that fly in the face of core values like low-waste, ethical and slow fashion. But for a brand with limited-run collections designed around fluctuating supplies of textile waste, it can be hard to guarantee the exact colourways, models and volumes that retailers are looking for. In some ways, that’s proved a positive, with many retailers eager to stock brands with an eco-friendly narrative Studio Reco’s colourful patchwork bags, which retail for as much as $700, are already stocked in Browns, Farfetch and Galeries Lafayette, among others. But doing so means engaging with a fashion system she is trying to subvert Recoder’s choice to use excess leather reflects her ambition to address, rather than contribute to, the waste created by the industry. The designer, whose accessories brand Studio Reco works with surplus leather from high-grade tanneries, needs to grow her wholesale business. Knowledge in the areas of network, telecommunications including common protocols (ISDN, SIP, RTP, IP, TCP, UDP), in the systematic presentation of technical issues and ideally in Microsoft Skype for Business, Microsoft Teams, Miro and other UCC solutions.When Bea Recoder heads to Paris trade show Tranoï this week, she must navigate a difficult balancing act.Working method: Independent, analytical, customer-oriented, structured and target group-oriented communication.Personality: Able to work in a team, interculturally open, assertive and strong in communication, self-initiative, responsible.
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